Saturday, September 21, 2013

Saturday September 21 2013


I made it up to the Snow place late yesterday.  I love going up there, the bench affords a panoramic view of the grey Pacific and the scattering of islands that shelter this part of the coast.  The Snow house sits at the top edge of the plateau with acres of stone fences fields and pastures running down a gentle slope before the land falls off a rift created millennia ago during one of the great earthquakes that regularly visit this coast. 

The Snow house is grand in a soft, organic way that makes it part of the landscape despite its imposing dimensions and features.  The gables and stone chimneys—there are seven—make it look like an illustration out of an child’s book of fairy tales.  There is a wraparound porch, covered of course so it can be used even when the rainy season sets in.  One of the Snow patriarchs, John Snow’s grandfather I’m told, designed it and supervised local carpenters to build it.  They were all ship builders, but they knew how to shape and fasten wood well enough to create boats that could withstand Pacific storms, so they could certainly build a solid house.  It is a house that has sheltered Mrs. Snow and her husband and their family for 70 years. 

I should tell you a little about Mrs. Snow…Bertie to all of Midden Harbour.  Her first name is Bertha but she insists that people call her Bertie.

She was the wife-now widow--of John Snow, the grandson of the Snow family patriarch who built the first fish processing plant in Midden Harbour.  Bertie had met John while they were both in college back east.   The two had  a college mixer organized by her school to allow their sophomores to meet appropriate young men from the nearby university in a chaperoned setting.  The attraction was apparently immediate and mutual.  However, when Bertie found out she was expected to move away from the comfortable life she had known, and set up house in a fishing village thousands of miles away, her ardor cooled.  But John was a persuasive man and passionate about his life and home in Midden Harbour.  He won the day and Bertie’s hand.

They had two children—Sheila and Jason.  Sheila was the older of the two, but sadly died in a boating accident as a young woman.  Jason had been on that boat as well, but through blind luck had managed to survive by clinging to the very half submerged log that had sunk the boat.  He had tried to hold onto his sister but he was too small and the water too cold.

Jason left Midden Harbour soon after, enrolled in an exclusive, residential boys school by parents who understood his need to get away.  He has gone on to become successful in business, something to do with real estate.

Bertie integrated into the community like she’d lived in a village all her life.  She became known for her welcoming smile and her strong will and for befriending everyone she met.

For decades, she wrote the Good Neighbour column for the Shoreline.  It was a column comprised of newsy gossip about who had their in-laws visiting from Boston, or who had just returned from a holiday abroad, or who had just gotten a promotion at the mill, or whose son was marrying a girl from the city, or which family was struggling with the passing of a loved one.  It was a must read for locals and a glimpse into the soul of the community for visitors.

Bertie is a walker, or at least had been until the last few years when she had become more frail.  Used to walk down from the bench every day, no matter the weather, to do her business in the shops and chat with the people she bumped into.  “Bumped into” is an ironic phrase in this case. 

One of the great pleasures for Bertie was commiserating with young mothers out walking with their children.  She especially loved babies, and was drawn to strollers like Butkus to Tom’s butcher shop.  The irony is that Bertie’s walkabouts—and almost her life--were brought to an end by a mother pushing a stroller.  A new mother, running behind one of those hi-tech, mega-wheeled, all terrain jogging behemoths had come round a corner at speed and crashed into Bertie at full speed.   The broken leg was bad enough for a woman in her late 80s, but it was the concussion that had us all really worried.  

But being Bertie, she pulled through with her spirit undiminished.  Her mobility, however, was extremely limited, and it seemed her mind was never quite the same.  The Doctor told me confidentially that she had given Bertie a diagnosis of Alzheimer’s a year earlier, and that the slowness was probably going to have happened anyway, but still, the accident didn’t help.

 Anyway…

Have run out of time to write about my conversation with Bertie.  And I won’t be able to do it tomorrow either.  Am heading out in the boat to catch as much of this fading summer weather as I can before it’s gone and the rain sets in.  Tomorrow I’ll be catching rays and salmon and not thinking about writing. 

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